Category Archives: Places

Monterey to San Diego, planning & learning along the way

Rounding Cape Conception

Rounding Cape Conception

First Overnight, Building Trust

Leaving Monterey to head south would be our first overnight voyage alone without other crew. We would have a 3-hour watch schedule. We planned to go straight to the Channel Islands or to Santa Barbara, rounding Cape Conception at night, all weather permitting. We monitored Predict Wind Offshore for departure plans. According to the software, the weather and winds all looked benevolent, but still we were a bit uneasy, not yet confident with the predictions matching the reality. We checked NOAA too and monitored weather on the VHF radio. We waited for the best window and committed to the departure. We cleaned, provisioned, organized. There was a quiet anxious edge in the cabin as we both prepared. At last we talked about the anxiety and the tension lifted. Michael was reassured when I admitted that I was nervous too. In fact, he was relieved that I was scared (nice). I told him that some of this requires a good dose of trust and faith.  The boat was ready. We would depart at dawn.

We left the dock at 6 am in the dark fog, bundled in foul weather gear and drinking coffee.  I had the first watch 6:00-9:00 am, with Michael nearby. It will take some time for him to relax. He does need his rest. I assured him that I would alert him of anything I’m unsure of. I also pointed out (with good humor) that I care about the boat and want to live just as much as he does. Relax honey, I got this. During my first watch, he pretended to sleep in the cabin with one eye open. We quickly realized that the wind would not be as expected. Lacking knots and favorable direction, again we had to motor, which changed our timing. We made the best of our passage, motoring through the cold and dense fog.  I slept well during my off time. Michael slept some too, gaining some trust in me on watch. 

Porpoises on our bow

Porpoises on our bow

Michael woke me once for the best of reasons: porpoises dancing under our bow. There were 20 or more, diving and swimming with us. Delightful.  

Learning

Entrance to Port San Luis

Entrance to Port San Luis

Running low on fuel, we stopped at Port San Luis at 6am the following morning.  After fueling, the wind began to pick up and then some! With less than a mile off shore, we decided to turn back and anchor for a night.The Harbormaster recommended we tie up to a mooring ball instead of anchoring. And so we go —and in howling winds, we each take turns trying to drive and slow the boat down, while the other catches the ball with the boat hook. Surely we’ve done this before, but not with this strange type of ball setup, nor in these conditions. Several attempts with no cigar. And so it happened that we broke a rule. We yelled. Cursed even. A broken boat hook was thrown into the water (and recovered). We retreated and did the most sensible thing – anchored.  I felt ashamed for Footloose, our proud boat. I imagined her scolding us, “ excuse me, you are embarrassing me, you promised there would be no yelling. what happened to your normally calm manners?…”  Our calm manners did return and that evening we were treated to an amazing display of whales and a mass of seabirds feasting 1/2 mile offshore. The next day there was a small craft advisory warning with gale force winds predicted. We stayed on the boat, nervously watching for anchor drift. We remained at anchor for not one night, but three, waiting for the wind to calm down for the “Conception rounding”.  We kept our cool, visited Avila beach, did laundry with our on board bucket system, and waited.

Rounding a Great Cape, Point Conception

All Systems GO, we left on September 24 bound for Conception. We got some wind and sailed for a while with the big reacher. We rounded the great cape under sail with daylight to spare, arriving in Southern California with gentle breezes and following seas. We anchored at Cojo Anchorage and toasted a beautiful passage. After a peaceful night, we were off to Santa Barbara. We motored along happily on a beautiful sunny day. Our cold weather foulies replaced by T-shirts and shorts!  We reached Santa Barbara Harbor on a balmy, busy Sunday afternoon. Michael cautiously navigated the channel teeming with boats, kayaks, paddle boarders, birds. It was crazy. He turned Footloose around to make a smooth starboard dock landing. I caught the cleat with the dock line and we parked. We made it!

Shorts and Sails, Santa Barbara Passage

Southern California, The Cruising Life

We made several stops in Southern California. We’re adapting to cruising. There’s a lot of planning and boat work, intermixed with quick bursts of seeing the sights. Our first stop was Santa Barbara, where we enjoyed 4 nights. Beautiful and HOT. We visited State Street, shopped at Lazy Acres market for more provisions, and took in the busy harbor activity. Linda, an old friend of Michael’s visited for fun dinner aboard.

Little Scorpion, Santa Cruz Island

Little Scorpion, Santa Cruz Island

Time for the next destination, Santa Cruz Island. We anchored at Little Scorpion Cove. So glad we made it for one night to the Channel Islands!  We explored this cove by dingy, taking in the birds, caves and the quiet desolate beauty.

Up at 5 am and off to Avalon, Catalina Island. Another overnight and all was calm. We arrived Avalon on another busy Sunday afternoon and tied up to our assigned mooring ball amidst an armada of large boats. In the process, we wrapped a line on our prop and got to meet a local diver, who quickly undid our mishap. (no yelling involved, only check writing.)  After the serenity of Little Scorpion, Avalon was at first sensory overload. Soon, the island’s charm grew on us. The best part was having our friends Celia and Art join us on the boat for a few days. We toured the Island by golf cart, had movie night at the gorgeous Casino theater, and snorkeled off of Descanso Beach. 

As soon as our friends departed, we decided to leave sooner than planned for our next overnight to San Diego.  We left at 5:30pm and arrived San Diego Harbor at 8:00am. We are now anchored in Glorietta Bay with a view of the Coronado Golf Course. There’s another Baja Ha Ha boat alongside. We’ll be busy here in San Diego too, preparing for the arrival of our crew and the start of the Baja Ha Ha Rally, which begins on Halloween!  In our brief cruising life, we’ve covered some 500 miles. It seems like so much longer than two months time.

Heading South

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After a great sail to Point Reyes, the wind went light forcing us to motor south.  Originally we had planned to go all the way to Half Moon Bay, but it was about two hours farther and would have forced us to arrive in the dark.  We made the decision to divert into the familiar waters of San Francisco Bay and anchored for the night at Clipper cove on the east side of Yerba Buena Island.  Inside the bay the wind was of course honking in the slot.  In clipper cove we arrived to a spirited one design race (Vanguard 15) followed by the amazing lights of the Bay Bridge from a different view point.

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The next morning we left on the outgoing tide for Half Moon Bay.  A three hour detour, but hey, we are cruisers.  There is no schedule.   Still getting used to that.  We dingied in and had lunch at the “best dive bar on the coast” well that’s what the sign said.  Lot of Pelicans on the breakwaters.

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Resting half way between Santa Cruz and Monterey about 10 miles off shore.

The next morning we left for Santa Cruz.  Lisa put together a marathon of activities, full contact tourism.  First a bicycle ride to Capitola for the Capitola art and wine fair.  Wow, very crowded, and a startling contrast to the serenity of almost three weeks in Tomales Bay.   One of the booths had a lot of beautiful pictures from the tropics and it turned out that the artist Evelyn and her husband Terry Drew have a cruising boat, Aquarelle, in the Caribbean.

After the art show back to the boat ,leaving the bicycles and then walking to the boardwalk to “enjoy” a ride on the big dipper followed by dinner at Laila, a great middle eastern restaurant recommended by Norman and Lynda.

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Now we are tied up at Monterey.  Doing a little boat work.  It’s different having to ride your bicycle to the Home Depot to find a new strap wrench.  Not having a car is a real perspective shift.  Luckily, Monterey has a beautiful bicycle trail along the dunes almost all the way, so no mixing it up with traffic.  We also have really enjoyed the Uber drivers we have met.  Seems to be a great concept. We enjoyed the Jazz Festival on Saturday. After a refill on provisions, we plan to head south for what will be our first overnight (alone) to Santa Barbara or one of the channel islands.  Still under discussion, but likely,  we’ll depart early Monday morning for Santa Barbara where we will wait for the wind in the Northern Channel Islands to subside.  Guidebooks make the anchorages sound a little sketchy so we want settled weather.

Otters

Otters

berklee quartet

From Berklee School of Music in Boston – MIXCLA +1

Tracking

Well, our SAT phone had a defect and now we have a new one.  The tracker is back on and shows us in Santa Cruz, which is where we are right now.  We did not however arrive overland as the blue line from Tomales to Santa Cruz might indicate.

Time and Tide

Time and Tide wait for no man, so since we like high water we are leaving Tomales at 6:15.  Its gloomy with a thick marine layer.  We escape the clutches of the tide passing over the bar, and head toward the flashing red bouy that marks the safe water beyond Tomales point.   Greeted by confused 8 foot seas with the wind 12 to 15 knots, almost on the nose we have 3 knots of boat speed, an eternity, well at least 10 hours of motoring  to Point Reyes.  Because of the southerly seas and swells, we won’t be able to hide out at Drakes Bay.  We briefly consider running to Bodega, getting a slip and enjoying the comforts there, but the weather is like this for at least a week and we are going to warmer waters.

It’s a sailboat, so we put up a full main and genoa, fall off and point.  Our rounding will be about 5 miles wide, but we need some power.  We have owned footloose for almost three years, but we are still learning.  She wakes up and starts to head down the track at 6 knots pushing her way through the confused swells.  We grin at each other, great boat.

Around Point Reyes we tack towards the coast in a dying wind.  Eventually we are motoring south in flat seas.

You Tube: Sailing south in flattening seas

Tomales Bay

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White Gulch

August 26, 2016

Marshall Beach, Tomales Bay

After a few days at South Beach Harbor, San Francisco, our new friends/crew joined us to help bring the boat to one of our favorite places, Tomales Bay.  Laura & Rich and Julie & Lee will crew for us during the Baja Ha Ha Rally in October. This Tomales trip was to be a warm up cruise. Michael & I had some concerns about having 6 people on board, but as we got underway, the concerns soon evaporated. Unfortunately, the wind was light and on the nose, so we motored all the way, stopping one night in Drake’s Bay in order to time our arrival into Tomales with the high tide. Soon after we anchored at Drake’s, Lee began making the rum punch and the party was on. We all rose the next day slowly and mildly grumpy, prepared to raise anchor and head to the mouth of Tomales Bay by 2:00. Raising the anchor proved challenging, as gigantic seaweed was wrapped around our chain. Valiantly, Lee & Michael cleaned the seaweed away as I raised the anchor and we were free to proceed. The mouth of Tomales Bay can be tricky, but we timed it right and Michael smoothly brought her in with no issues. We anchored at White Gulch and enjoyed one more night together, refraining from the rum punch. Our friends departed the next day to return to their busy lives on land. Michael and I immediately settled in with a long boat nap. Happy to be here!

Flow

Day 4 anchored in Tomales Bay.  What a place. Serene, desolate, foggy, misty, cold for August. Just me, Michael and Footloose. There are teams of kayakers, and small boat fisherman, occasional sailboats in the distance, but for the most part, we are alone. It’s quiet here. I can really hear the birds sing, the fish splash, the power of the pelican flight.  Quite a place to get into the flow of cruising life.

Changes

We endured two days without wifi in White Gulch before moving to Marshall Beach & taking the dinghy to “town” in Marshall. We picked up our general delivery mail and went to the restaurant to eat and plug in. We needed to take care of some business online and had some pending texts & emails anxiously awaiting delivery.  The Wifi, bandwidth challenges will be part of the experience I suppose. I’m learning that I can take a connectivity break once in awhile. I don’t feel the constant urge to be with my phone as I once did. I can leave it behind to go out on my SUP board without a pang.

Answers

When preparing to cruise, common questions from friends were about boredom, loneliness, small space, being scared. I know it’s only been a couple weeks and four days, but I assure you I am not bored!  I won’t bore you with the minutia of daily routines, but here are some insights. There is no schedule, only plans that unfold or delay or surprise. I’m enjoying watching the birds and reading about their migratory routes. I’m trying recipes and planning meals for a couple days out, which is enjoyable when the day is mine. I’m talking with Michael about boat parts (still), philosophy, travel, family, science, life. I’ve taken to my Stand Up Paddle Board for a great workout and some meditative alone time. I’m learning something new all the time. Currently, I’m learning about my VHF radio and writing a communication guide for the boat’s procedure manual. We are taking care of Footloose, which is more like a small city than a boat. Every day we monitor our energy (amps), our water (2 tanks), our holding tanks (sewage), our need for showers (hot water). All the things you take for granted for the most part on land are an intricate part of your daily awareness on water. Today we are abuzz charging all systems, making water, making heat, making amps (Gen-Set).  So, it’s not boring. It’s not scary. It’s not lonely. It’s different here.

Next Stop

Planning is another big part of cruising. Where will you go next, when will you leave, what route will you take? We will be in Tomales Bay for 2 weeks and a bit before beginning our route south. Tomales Bay feels like home in a way. Michael spent many years sailing here. There is the annual Labor Day Regatta hosted by the Santa Rosa Sailing Club. Michael and his friends from the Marconi Cove Yacht Club will race one more time aboard Mark’s boat. There will be the annual “Bachelor Party” at Marshall this weekend, a 25 + year tradition. So, this departure will be bittersweet. It will also begin a new wondrous chapter as we will leave the Golden Gate and head south to Pillar Point, Half Moon Bay, then on towards Point Conception, sometimes referred to as the Cape Horn of the Pacific.

Cruising the bay.. What a great place to live.

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We started with a 1 hour cruise to Ayala Cove, and spent 2 days on the mooring balls there.  First day, we were in shock, wow we had finally thrown off the dock lines.  Tired we sat around all day doing not much more than discussing the techniques other boats used to suspend themselves between two mooring balls.  Second day we had a great walk on the perimeter trail. With amazing vistas of the city and bay.  A walk through history; Angel has been the home of immigrants and soldiers.  Legs were tired after that one.

Then another short motor to Sausaulito, where we tied up at Schoonmaker Marina.  Windy was the key word.  The boat was at cruising RPMs just to stay even with the dock to tie up….  We rode our bikes downtown.  Sausalito was a festival of food.   Lunch at Napa Valley Burger Company.  Dinner at Le Garage, just a few steps from our boat.  Breakfast at Fred’s.  Yum.

I also fulfilled a decades old desire to visit the Bay Model.  An amazing place used to model large scale changes to the bay, like dredging and making new channels.  Originally it was used to test the Reber Plan which involved damming the bay to stop salt water incursion into the central valley.  The North bay would have been one large fresh water reservoir.  Really enjoyed the Marinship display, and listening to interviews with old timers who helped turn out ships for WWII. They really were the greatest generation.

Anchored off of China camp in Marin.  Ahhh it’s warm.  There is a little fetch when the ebb fights the wind but great evenings on the porch watching the sun go down.  We did some boat work rigging up a wringer for hand wash when there are no laundromats.  New gasket for the refrigerator.   Lisa is working on a provisioning work sheet.  She is getting used to her inflatable SUP board by paddling against the chop and current.. It takes about ten times longer to get back to the boat than it does to get downwind.   Looks like hard work to me.   We launched the Kayak and went sailing for an hour and a half.  Great sailing through the chop and fairly warm water of China camp.  Lisa is testing out new recipes.  Ham and beans in the pressure cooker.  Delhi chicken and rice. Last night boxed brownies while we watched Netflix.

That was our seventh day of cruising.  At anchor the days seem to pass easily, we are busy with projects, but the whole thing lacks the incessant urgency of the work world.  Before you know it, it’s time to watch another sunset.  Seven days is only a short vacation but we don’t have that nagging feeling of having to be back to work next week.  Or as a self-employed guy that sense that your overhead meter was flying along furiously while you are pretending to be relaxed.

Now tied up at South Beach Harbor.  It feels kind of rushed.  Wish we had allowed a few more days. With provisioning (boaty term for grocery shopping) and Laundry, we feel like there is no time to play tourist in our own town.

We met Carol and Charlie for Dinner at Delancy Street.  Delancy is a half-way house for recovering addicts and others facing personal challenges.  As part of their operation they provide job training and experience.  They have a moving company and a white table cloth restaurant.  The food was great with reasonable prices and charming wait staff.

Afterwards, we put the running lights on the dingy and took a quick trip to ATT Park (the ball park in San Francisco) where the Giants were playing.  It’s a little bit of a San Francisco thing to take your boat to McCovey Cove, where you can’t actually watch the game but you can see the lights and the people and hear the roar of the crowd.  People on big boats keep an eye on the TV while they enjoy refreshments. When Bonds was hitting long ones out of the park, people in kayaks would race to get the home run balls.

 

For our last night out we ate at Boulevard with Felecia and Paul.  Great food as usual.  This was one of our favorite places to eat out.

Fisher Poets in Astoria

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David Densmore - Fisherman Welder Poet Biker

The Fisher Poet – David Densmore

In Astoria’s East Basin, It was a pretty long hike out to where the boat was docked.  I think catamarans are always at the very end of the dock.  As I walked back and forth on the long finger, I would pass an old fishing boat named Cold Stream.  A rough looking man with long hair and a greasy work coat was busy MIG welding an aluminum bulwark onto the boat.  Since I am interested in welding, I would stop to watch, and we struck up a conversation.

In the adjacent slip lay a huge 60’ Ferro-cement ketch.  He told me he was planning to retire onto that boat and go cruising.  David told me that he had lived on boats his whole life, but always on fishing boats mainly fishing in Alaska.  He is looking forward to learning to sail and spending some time in warm water.

David is a burly man, with long hair, a loud Harley, huge hands, reddened and scarred from years of hard work.  Having a lot of sailing books on Footloose to get rid of, I shyly asked if he learned by reading or if his learning style had more to do with hands on and practical application.  Surprisingly to me, he confessed a love of books.  I brought him my load including Adelard Coles heavy weather and the cruising encyclopedia.

David surprised me by offering me one of his books of poetry in exchange.  It seems he has written several books of poetry.  He told me the poems come to him spontaneously, and he would just write them down.  I mentioned my surprise based on his appearance and he laughed, “wish I had a dollar for every time I heard that”.  You can’t judge a book by the cover.

A few days later I was leaving for Alameda and as I wheeled my luggage down the dock he told me that I should plan to attend the annual fisher poets gathering at the end of February.

In February, Lisa and I took a few days to drive back up the coast.  One of our stops was in Newport where my favorite restaurant Local Ocean Seafood was just as good as the last time I had eaten there 7 or 8 years previously.

Cold Stream - Open For Business

Cold Stream – Open For Business

David Desmore – MC

When we got to Astoria we spent a couple of days at the boat, and went to the Fisher poets’ event. It was a held over the weekend with several venues, I started with coffee on Dave’s Boat where one of the attending poets began to sing with his guitar. The event was well attended with lots of people crowding into three venues to eat, drink and listen to 90 fisher poets. Highly recommended.

Fisher Poets

The Sea Lions of Astoria

 

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Sea lion deterrent

We arrived in Astoria, Oregon on the first of September to a harbor infested with sea lions. Several of the docks are sinking under the weight of thousands of huge animals. The first order of business was to build a visual deterrent to keep the beasties off the boat.

When we arrived a large sailboat, a few slips down, had three sea lions on her coach roof which was sagging under their weight. They had climbed from the dock onto the boat.
The sea lions bark constantly, 24/7, the only way to sleep on your boat is with construction earplugs. Lying awake you can almost hear the words. Their voices seem to consist of about 6 notes, the notes are “barked” in a series of up to about 5. In my mind the notes are letters and each series of barks a word. I imagine the conversation to be something like. Hey you are lying on me fatso. I was here first. Make room. I’m bigger than you. Arp aarp urp. They make up for content with constancy.
Imagine the shock of finding a 5 foot tall sea lion standing in your path on the head float at night. Intimidating to say the least. They do eventually give way by jumping into the water. Interestingly a barrier of construction ribbon on a wooden stake about 18 inches high was enough to keep a thousand pound sea lion from coming onto the dock. As soon as a stake is knocked over however, all bets are off and they scramble to make themselves comfortable.
The sea lions are a hot topic in Astoria. There is a Sea Lion Preservation committee that wants the port to abandon the Marina to the creatures. They post “observers” on the causeway every day to watch for wrong doing against the sea lions. On weekends depending on the weather, as many as 100 tourists come to view the sea lions. The port tries to charge them $5.00 for parking, but most do not pay.
Pro sea lion forces want the port to abandon the marina including its est. $100M sea wall. They claim that any damage to the fishery is more than offset by the vast increase in tourist revenue brought by the sea lion “attraction.”
Anti-sea lion forces claim that sea lions have decimated the salmon runs killing salmon by biting out just the belly of the fish, apparently the best part. A man who dove on our boat to inspect our zincs told me he used to be a commercial fisher and had enjoyed killing “hundreds” of sea lions, sometimes leaving them draped on navigation buoys where they had hauled out.
Both sides of the issue are rabid in their beliefs. Meanwhile the government brands the sea lions as they appear and have a program to cull the greedy ones. Pro sea lion forces claim a relentless slaughter but I read somewhere that the program had killed a total of 50 sea lions in the life of the program….years.

Sucia Island

Rough rocky night on the boat.  The boat would point parallel to the swell instead of into the wind.

The next morning the weather continued.  We decided to stay at Sucia and work on the boat, but began to feel barfy from looking down in the wallowing boat.  We decided to move to the south side of Echo bay which was more protected.    As soon as we got anchored the weather cleared and we enjoyed a beautiful afternoon.  We walked down most of the north side of echo bay with spectacular views.  Back at the boat we prepared Margaritas with the blender given to us as a Wedding gift by Doug and Kathy Logan.  Then a fabulous feast.. ribeye, shrimps asparagus sautéed mushrooms. YUMM.

Honey Moon in the Pacific Northwest

After a summer working on the boat, I left for our wedding in Santa fe New Mexico.  Lisa and I had been apart for most of two months.   Talk about a hard way to plan a wedding.  Everything went smoothly and we returned to the boat for our honeymoon in the San Juans

We staDriversEdrted with a little training on Docking with our instructor Tim Hoving.  Tim is a certified catamaran instructor with San Juan Sailing.  We hired him to work on our docking skills.  He emphasizes getting attached to the dock without getting off of the boat.

The big lesson of the day was throw the line on both sides of the cleat buy having the coil split between the two hands.   Then pull in the unattached side to connect to the dock.. We did the practice with our head phones on.