Tag Archives: Barra de navidad

Season Three: Panama!

Panama Posse

Class of 2018-2019 at Barra de Navidad

Each season begins with a plan. This season Michael and I shook hands on taking the Central American route to Panama. We thought we would have made it there last season, but plans changed. This year we seem determined, albeit somewhat scared to leave what has become our familiar and friendly cruising grounds around Mexico. Not scared exactly, just a bit uncertain. Uncertainty is one aspect of the cruising life that you have to get used to. What lies ahead? To bolster our knowledge and bravado, we have joined the Panama Posse, a support group of sorts for like-minded cruisers on the less traveled Central-American route.

Now in its second season, the Panama Posse is not a race or an organized rally whereby we all depart and travel together until we cross the finish line. Rather this group was created to provide information and a supportive community for people traveling this route. Some boats may buddy boat together, others may travel to a different schedule. Either way, the Panama Posse will be there to check in with along the way.

Posse kick-off in Barra de Navidad

November marks the start of many cruising seasons. The Marina Puerto de Navidad (a Panama Posse sponsor), hosted this season’s Posse kick-off shortly after Thanksgiving. The week featured daily seminars to learn more about the route, weather and safety, provisioning and finally the kick-off party. Dietmar of Sailing Vessel (S/V) Carinthia is the organizer/presenter for this week’s event. He with his wife Suzanne traveled with last year’s Posse to Panama, so he has first-hand knowledge and lots of stories to share.

Community

The Panama Posse is created with community in mind. Not to be repetitive or cliché, but believe me when I tell you that cruisers are the most generous of people. They gravitate to helping out and building community. Perhaps it’s because we are a minority, when you consider there are really only about 25,000 small boats cruising worldwide. While cruisers tend to be self-reliant types, they also seek out others. Whether to troubleshoot an engine problem on someone’s boat or to wait out a weather system or commiserate over a rough passage or to share a snorkel or a taxi to Mega to provision, cruisers join together. So far, there are about 58 vessels signed up for this season’s Posse, with 19 attending the kick off. Others will join the route later in the year. Some will travel the distance to Panama and others may stop over in El Salvador or elsewhere for the season. Like always, plans and routes are unique to each boat and crew.

Communication

Chris and Monica on S/V SeaGlub have volunteered to be the lead vessel, which means they will be coordinating the communication. In the past, Single Side Band (SSB) Nets were the primary means of checking in with boats underway.This year we will use an online application,“Line”, to do weekly check-ins, plus there is a 24-hour chat room to pose questions, etc. Knowing there are people who are listening and watching our boat’s progress is a comfort. Should we have a medical or other emergency out there, we feel better assured of some assistance. More than likely we will hear mostly about the best restaurants, calm anchorages, and interesting inland trips not to be missed. In addition to Line, Dietmar will send out regular Posse updates by email with information that members of the Posse share. We are asked to provide detailed information (e.g. latitude and longitude of a good or bad anchorage, phone number for a mechanic in El Salvador, how to check in to Costa Rica, etc.) All of this is being recorded for the next guy. We learn by doing, but also from shared information. Fortunately, we hear that wifi and satellite coverage is strong along this route — most of the time.

Sponsors

Dietmar and others have cultivated relationships with marinas and other services along the route to Panama. Thanks to their efforts, there are now many sponsors offering significant discounts to Panama Posse members. One notable sponsor is Vista Mar Marina in Panama where we plan to park Footloose at season end. These sponsors and discounts are another welcome benefit of joining this group as we prepare ourselves for some sticker shock when we leave Mexico!

Plan, Work, then Go

That’s the plan for now. Our departure date is unfortunately delayed a few days while waiting for our DHL mail delivery. Patience. Oh well, another dip in the pool, read a book, a couple more boat items checked off the list, a delicious dinner out at Bésame Mucho. A tropical storm system passed through last week, likely the last one of the year. The weather and seas look calm for departure tomorrow. I’ve enjoyed our time in Barra and meeting new friends with the Panama Posse. Our next stop is only 20 nm south to a small, serene anchorage at Ensenada Carrizal. Slowly we make our way south!  

Barra De Navidad, Thanks for the Memories…

Policía, Pastries, Pelicans, and Pus? 

Playa Paraiso, Jalisco

Peaceful  Jalisco

We are in the state of Jalisco, which according to the news reports, should have me cautious or even in retreat from this place of crime–danger. Yet, all we experience are peaceful friendly people living their lives.  When I hear reports of the homicides (which is rare, since I’m somewhat tuned out to the news) – I’m perplexed. Jalisco, I read to Michael, is at the center of the drug-gang warfare. Most recently four film students were reported missing, most likely they were kidnapped and slaughtered!   Hmmm? I think I’m living in a parallel-universe or something. The place I see is beautiful. The people warm, joyous, open, and helpful beyond belief.  Hmmm? I do wonder “why are there so many policía on this desolate beach?” – as we found at the Aquarium/Tenacatita.  Is this a hideout for the cartel or is it something else?  Are the policía there to protect these people living on the beach, running beach palapas and fishing? Hmmm?  not sure.  We come in peace and find it here, but we are careful.  Politics & crime watch aside – the Costalegre (happy coast) region is a cruisers’ delight. 

Barra de Navidad

We arrived in Barra with high expectations as it tops many boaters favorite stops along the pacific coast. It did not disappoint. Granted, we stayed in the marina, not in the lagoon anchorage where many a boat have gone aground or drifted.  We were there in April, notoriously the windiest month (who knew?).  It did blow hard in the afternoons, but we were tied up to the dock safe and sound.  Our friend George (Circadian) served as our excellent tour guide and we quickly settled into the Barra lifestyle with french pastries delivered daily to the boat by the french baker, water taxis to town, beautiful walks in lush landscaping, and delicious food and fun with friends.   

Beautiful walks & views around the Marina Puerto de la Navidad

Poolside:  You get full use of the pool at the Grand Bay Hotel when staying at the Marina.  nice perk.

Great Restaurants in Barra (Simonas, El Manglitos, Barra Galeria de Arte…)

Michael’s Birthday, April 5: his day began with a sunrise dinghy ride with George of Circadian through the lagoon for bird watching & photo shoot. We had a few friends over for a toast before dinner at the hotel restaurant, Antonios.  He even wore long pants for the occasion.

Bahía Tenacatita

If Barra hails as the favorite town, Tenacatita is the favorite anchorage. Some friends lovingly refer to it as “summer camp for adults.”  Depending on your childhood experience, that could be  good or bad.  We were late getting here (winter months are the busy season), so the camp activities were scarce. We did just fine making up our own with the help of some friends we met at anchor: Dinghy ride thru the mangroves/lagoon; snorkeling at the “aquarium” beach; game night on Nellie Jo until midnight; a day at La Manzanilla and the crocodile preserve; a kayak sail in the bay; and fun on the boat watching the critters and doing boat projects.

We took our dinghy twice for the lagoon ride, once with our friends to the beach notably called the “Aquarium”.  We hoped for better snorkeling there, but the visibility and conditions were poor. Oh well, we enjoyed the dinghy ride and a nice lunch after the swim.

The second dinghy tour was all about the critters & photos.

One day we took a panga ride to La Manzanilla and visited the Crocodiles!

Lots to do while at anchor and we made the best of it.

Paraíso

peaceful place

Peaceful place

Paraíso is a small, quiet anchorage, a road less traveled. Only one of our friends had ventured here and reported it pristine, though rolly with large swell, bow & stern anchors are recommended.  Only 22 miles from Tenacatita, we decided to have a look. We were the only boat there and for four days it was our private oasis.  The water was clear & cool for swimming and the pelicans & seagulls our sole companions. We did paddleboard to shore to check out the colorful house, thinking we could enjoy a cerveza and walk the beach. Turns out it is private property and no cervezas were for sale. You can rent the house called La Casa del Abuelo for $400 per night all meals included, including the infinity pool, a private beach and many toys.  The proprietor gladly gave us a tour. http://www.paraisocareyes.com/

Chamela

A popular stop off for boaters waiting for good weather window to round Cabo Corrientes. It’s a friendly spot with Palapas and many families enjoying the beach.  We stopped for a bit, but not for long. Hunh,whaat, what did you say? Hunh….Michael’s ear was pounding, his canal opening blocked, hearing muffled, and one morning pus was found on his pillow. Enough!  The poor guy has been to three doctors since November for varying ear ailments. In Mazatlan, the clinic rinsed the eardrums & gave antibiotics. In la Cruz in January, the doctor prescribed drops and another antibiotic. Michael has tried his own alcohol and vinegar remedy. He wears earplugs when swimming. The condition switches from one ear to the other, the discomfort fades then returns. This time it was the worse. We tried to find a clinic in the small town of Chamela, but ran out of patience looking for it while walking in the dusty heat and getting puzzled looks from the locals. clinica?  No sé’. us either. We reviewed the weather and decided to depart earlier than planned. Back to La Cruz, Nayarit (96 miles) and known medical help. The weather, with winds from the north (on the nose) instead of the predicted south. As we approached the cape we excitedly prepared to sail the last few hours into Banderas Bay. As we turned 50 degrees away from the wind and rounded the point we began to sail towards La Cruz.. 15 minutes later, wind on the nose AGAIN. They call it geographic effect, the wind bending around the mountains that line the bay; I call it annoying.  We anchored out in La Cruz by 10 am, Michael went to the clinic first thing the following morning and after a round of antibiotics and steroids, I’m happy to report he can now hear me! — And he feels a whole lot better.

La Cruz—Nuevo Vallarta

We are now back in Marina Riviera Nayarit, in La Cruz figuring out various plans and projects.  We will soon check Footloose into Paradise Village in Nuevo Vallarta for the summer hurricane season. Before we launched this cruising plan – we agreed to give it a try for two years and then see how we both feel after the steep portion of the learning curve.   As with life anywhere there are good days and bad. Sometimes you feel strong and energetic, others you hurt or feel lethargic. Some days you are grateful and brave, others cranky or fearful. Same goes for the places we visit. As one long-time restauranteur in La Cruz commented- “it’s not paradise here, but it’s close.”  Amen to that. The two-year mark is upon us and we both concur- bring on season three!  And so the adventure continues. We will surely face new challenges with the Tehuanapec, the Papagayos, bar crossings, and the Panama Canal; we will also share fresh experiences with the new cultures, colorful wildlife, explored miles, and friendship. Today we say yes to all of it and therein lies the true gift. 

Still having fun!

Still having fun!