We spent 3 weeks or so in Mazatlán both anchored at Isla de la Piedra (Stone Island) and docked at El Cid Marina. It was a relaxing time reconnecting with cruising friends from last year and meeting some new ones. The photos tell the best story.
Footloose at El Cid Resort & Marina
Footloose Lights Up Marina
Party Boat at El Cid
El Cid Marina is very “resorty” and we took advantage of all the amenities. What’s not to like about a drop off laundry service and afternoon swims at your choice of pools? We especially liked the pool with the caves and slide! There was always a happy hour going on somewhere. Footloose was on an end tie in the fairway right between the fuel dock and the Aries fishing boat fleet & catamaran adventure boats. We got to know the water taxi driver as he shuttled folks back and forth to the beach across from us all day long. We witnessed quite a few brides being escorted over to the popular wedding site. It was entertaining to watch the action from our back porch.
Footloose Bow in the Moonlight
Super Moon
First Boat Work, then swim…
Pool Time
Friends
There were many familiar faces & boats on our dock. Cruising friends reunited! We hosted a couple of shindigs on Footloose, including the Thanksgiving potluck (see holiday post coming soon). We also met some new people like Mark & Cindy on Delta Swizzler also from Northern California and another couple on C’est La Vie who pulled in for one night and tied up in front of us. We had one short conversation walking back to the boat after a swim. I don’t remember their names because we didn’t exchange boat cards, but something he said stuck with me. This couple has been cruising for 17 years and are still excited about it. Now in his 70’s, the man of the boat swears – “Cruising keeps you young.” I hope he’s right!
Patrice (on Sonamara) out to Italian dinner
Donna (on Single D) having fun with a bartender, “make us a mexican coffee!”
Delta Swizzler departing Marina
Critters
Iguanas rule at El Cid
Marveling at critters is one of my favorite pastimes. At El Cid, I had my first encounter with Iguanas! Wow, they were everywhere. They especially liked the cave pool area. One day I saw one on a lounge chair and a lady was petting him/her like a cat. Tame and used to resort life and its inhabitants I’m sure.
El Gato in Old Town
Night Heron visits Footloose
Night Heron visits Footloose
Every morning they land & sing for us
Iguana at El Cid
Another Iguana
Old Town
Our best adventure off the Marina was a visit to Old Town Mazatlán. I love the colorful streets & celebration.
Town Centro, restaurants & market stalls galore
Christmas Season is here
Dinner at Hector’s, a gem
Michael finds coffee roaster!
Art Walk Tour
Welcome to Art Walk, Dec 2017
The first Friday of each month there is an Art Walk tour in Old Town. Creative artisans display their work in galleries and shops throughout town. Masks & Sculptures delight! No room on the boat for art collecting, but we were happy to look.
Isla de la Piedra
Many cruisers like this spot as a place to prepare for an early morning departure. Much easier to leave in the dark from this anchorage then the marina, which has tricky tides, currents, and dredging to contend with. We left El Cid Marina after sunrise and motored around the corner to anchor. I immediately jumped in the water and cleaned the spluge from our waterline. Spluge: the oily grimy crud that we collect when at a dock a little too long. We stayed two days at anchor and then left for Isla Isabel at 0430.
Our friends Laura & Rich arrived Oct 30. Boat is ready to go and so are we!First stop Topolobampo, 196 NM. We departed at 0130 Nov 1 with an unfortunate “south wind”, and a bumpy ride come mid morning.I overcame some queasiness, and we arrived Topolobampo marina Nov 2 mid day.We docked for a couple days in Topolobampo and got ready for our Copper Canyon Tour, Nov 4-10.
Best Men’s Room Ever, San Carlos fun
Underway to Topo
Another Skipjack
Laura cooked breakfast, yum!
morning coffee
Approaching Topo
Calm Captain in Channel
long channel to Topo entrance!
Topo Marina entrance
Out to dinner in Topo
Out to dinner in Topo
Beautiful night above Ohuira Bay, lights of shrimp boats
Copper Canyon Tour
Copper Canyon, view from El Chepe
Sometimes you have to get off the boat and explore on land. Our Copper Canyon excursion took us by train (El Chepe), atop a “van” to the bottom of the Urique Canyon, by foot (hiking paths through Rarámuri villages), and even by Zip Line across three canyons at 65mph!
The Copper Canyon (Spanish: Barrancas del Cobre) is a group of canyons consisting of six distinct canyons in the Sierra Madre Occidental. According to Copper Canyon Insider, Mexico’s Copper Canyon is seven times larger than the United States’ Grand Canyon, spanning the 372-mile Copper Canyon nature preserve.
Cristina, Rich, & Lisa
The success of our tour rested first on the small, but capable shoulders of our tour guide, Cristina. When we booked this tour with Authentic Mexican Travel, we were at first skeptical of having a guide, usually preferring to be spontaneous and independent intrepid travelers. Having this guide turned out to be the right choice for us. Cristina surprised and delighted us with her knowledge, humor, great conversation and tenacity to make our trip all we had hoped for.
El Fuerte
El Fuerte, historical tour!
Our first stop was El Fuerte.Cristina began with a walking tour of the center of town. She is passionate and wanted to share much history with our tired brains. We laughed a lot as Rich blatantly admitted “ less history” is better.She laughed heartily, but still insisted on slipping history in as often as possible. A funny thread that continued throughout our week’s tour.At the Palacio Municipal there is a large mural with a pictorial history of El Fuerte. She asked us how many minutes should I explain the story in? We challenged her to do it in five, which she almost did!
Courtyard, Palacio Municipal
El Fuerte, Gazebo in Plaza
El Fuerte, Center of Town
The Historical Mural wraps around & tells quite a story
Tarahumara, Rarámuri, Ralámuli
Rarámuri children at home in the canyon
Manuel, Tarahumara
The Rarámuri or Tarahumara are a Native American people of northwestern Mexico who are renowned for their long-distance running ability. They live remotely in and around the copper canyon. Amongst the caves and cliffs of the canyons, they raise families, farm, make crafts for sale at markets (baskets woven with apache pine needles and sotol leaves a speciality), andthey run. Cristina referred to the indigenous people in three ways: Tarahumara, Rarámuri, Ralámuli. In some ways, we learned they are synonymous; yet, there are cultural and language distinctions among the groups.
Cristina talks & we listen!
For us it was all about the pronunciation. Each day we tried and by day seven, we could pronounce each word, almost. (Patient Cristina, more laughter). However we say it, we all appreciated the spirit of the people, their vibrant colors, their simplicity, their strength and joy.
click here to hear Cristina
The train only comes once a day.
El Chepe to Cerachaui
Day 2 we boarded El Chepe for Cerachaui. Cristina arranged for a driver to meet us at each train stop. It was all organized and efficient. The train ride was comfortable, though occasionally hot and smelly with exhaust fumes between the cars — but the scenery was spectacular. Cristina alerted Michael of photo ops at every turn. She pointed out the native plants such as the Blue Agave, Sotol and the Apache Pine —and sprinkled in some history as we travelled along, snacking on delicious corn cookies we purchased earlier at the roadside horno.
Stinky in the Tunnel
Apache Pine
Fresh Corn Cookies, Roadside Horno
San Isidro Lodge (Near Cerachaui – Urique Canyon)
San Isidro Ranch
Michael & Memo
Staying at San Isidro Lodge was a highlight of the trip.Tito and his brothers Mario and Luis with their families live and operate the ranch, passed down from grandparents. The ranch includes several log cabins for guests.We took great hikes around the property, beautiful vistas, so peaceful. We ate meals family style in the main dining room off the kitchen. The food was homey, fresh and delicious. I loved the coffee after dinner with cinnamon and the popcorn passed around the campfire each evening before sundown. We were entertained by the roosters and chickens, turkeys and guinea hens all roaming and living together in relative peace. Kitties (Tuna and Memo, short for Guillermo) followed us around. Memo was fond of Michael’s lap with morning coffee or afternoon cerveza on the chair swing.
Path to Dining Room/Kitchen
Sweat Lodge
windows made of wine bottles in all cabins
Our second day featured a harrowing trip for me & Laura on top of a GMC down to the bottom of Urique Canyon. Especially unnerving to see the numerous “memorials” left along the narrow road. We enjoyed a beautiful lookout along the way and a walk and lunch in Urique at the bottom of the canyon.
memorials along the road
A stop on the way down the Urique Canyon
Michael at overlook
passing by
at the bottom of Urique Canyon
Urique
Our last quiet evening at the lodge we shared the campfire with other guests, which happened to include Manuel, a renowned Tarahumara featured in Born to Run.
On Day 4, Gustavo drove us to Divisadero, stopping at Cerachaui along the way. Cristina gave us a quick tour and history of this town, where she had once worked at the hotel. Quite a Mission & boarding school for girls founded by Padre Andres Lara. The distances that the Rarámuri must travel for school by foot are daunting. Understandably, the boarding school is a viable option.
The Mission
Boarding School
Laura, Cristina, Lisa, Rich
To say we had rooms with a view at the Hotel Mansion Tarahumara is understated. However, we did have to climb 223 steps to reach them! And for each meal we had to descend them. Let’s just say we were extra careful to not forget anything in the room. We relished the workout, feeling a bit of the Tarahumara spirit and the view was beautiful.We had our own table in the large dining room. We enjoyed our meals with Cristina, chatting about the day, practicing our Spanish and she English. Mas laughter.
Balcony View, AHHHH
Rocky, our beautiful friend & resident dog
223 steps to the room.. We are almost Rarámuri
Day 5 at the Parque de Adventura, Rich & I braved the ZipRider,reportedly the longest zipline in the world, 2545 meters (8,350 feet) long with a max registered speed of 135 km/hr (84 mph)! with a vertical drop of 450 meters (17% grade). For us is was a 2 minute ride at 65 mph, with 2 initial seconds of terror followed by an exhilarating peace. We hiked up to where our group was waiting for us to return by the Gondola.The park offers other excitng attractions for thrill seekers and challenging hikes. We celebrated with hamburguesas and cerveza.
Brave Souls!
WOOHOO
Don’t look below
We did it!
Beautiful Ride
Winding Down
Day 6, after a lovely morning hike, we left to catch El Chepe back to El Fuerte for our final night. It was a longer ride back. As the daylight dimmed, so did our view. Perhaps sensing our restlessness, Cristina led us in some spontaneous spanish lessons. Standing in the train isle, she led us reciting the names for body parts and sharing proverbial phrases of our cultures. One example Cristina shared: Camaron que se duerme se lo lleva la corriente: says that Sleeping Shrimp the current will take it away….is referring about lazy people…when people do not do anything we use it.
morning hike
Rarámuri home
Rarámuri home
Arriving in El Fuerte, we dined together at the hotel restaurant, toasting with tequila shots, and tasting black bass.
Day 7, Breakfast, a brief walk about town and a return trip to Footloose at Topolobampo Marina.We invited Cristina aboard to see the boat and to say our goodbyes to our new Amiga.
Onward to Mazatlán
Back on the boat, I made chicken soup and we prepared for the next day’s journey, 222 NM to Mazatlán, with possible stop at Altata at 128 NM. The approach to Altata turned out to be a no-go zone,due to the current, big breaking waves and indistinguishable entrance. Decision made to avert, we set our sights on the next waypoint, Stone Island Anchorage, Mazatlán.We enjoyed a beautiful long sail throughout the day and night. Finally, got the right wind! Wanting to arrive in daylight, we decided to reef the main and gennaker to slow down our progress.Gorgeous, calm & starry night made for peaceful watch standing. The wind died around 0530 so it was time to motor, leaving the main up for a bit to help. What a morning, warm and steamy.For their last watch, Laura & Rich were treated with many Dolphin visits, along with the sunrise and then there was Mazatlán in the distance. The only disappointment of this trip was our fishing. We caught 15 skipjacks at last count, all released. Where are the Dorado? next time?
Anchored at Isla de la Piedra (Stone Island), 0900, Nov 13
We swam to cool off and enjoyed boat naps. Went to shore for garlic shrimp pizza & cervezas at Benjis, one of a few restaurants on shore. It was dark as we were seated on the beachfront and Michael requested some light. Expecting a candle? no – out they come with a string of christmas lights to hang above our table!We love anchoring out, so many unexpected stories.The next day, Laura & Rich hiked to the top of Isla los Chivos (Goat Island) while Michael & I rested. That evening we had a party on Footloose with a feast of grilled Arrachera and veggies, rice, coleslaw and música, including some bucket drumming and singing our hearts out to Eagles Hits.
El Cid & Farewell
We moved to the El Cid Marina and Resort where we have a reservation for a few weeks. We enjoyed a few days here with our friends at the pool and visiting old town before their departure on Nov 18. Our last evening together we went to dinner at El Presidio, great ambiance and food.
Old Town Mazatlán
We were sad to see our friends go after such a fun time shared. We think we gave them a fair glimpse of the cruising life. We are excited for them, knowing that they are that much closer to finding their own boat to take cruising.¡Salud!
